They say that after the revolution, all the delicious dishes, the names of which hinted at the bourgeois and aristocratic way of life, were urgently renamed. So that there are no portaniers, creme de la reins, a la brooches and joinville.
I don’t know, neither I nor any of you, dear guests, have seen those times.
However, in the Soviet public catering - restaurants and cafes - a dish was served, the name of which hinted: and the count was not ashamed to eat it.
Well, consumers, though not graphs, used it... and happily.
If someone does not understand what I mean, then I reveal my cards: julienne.
Earlier (in adolescence or even childhood) I was interested in the question: if a dish is a julienne, then why is it served in cocotte makers, and not in julienne makers. Why are there no such dishes as a crook at all?
In this state of affairs, in my opinion, there was no logic at all.
Only by becoming interested in the history of culinary did I find out: the julienne that is the julienne and the one that we have in our cocotte makers are “two big differences” /
For starters, julienne is a way of cutting vegetables into thin slices, about one and a half millimeters, and everything cooked with them, will be called la julienne, or simply "julienne" The word julienne, by the way, goes back to the French de juillet - "July".
For such cutting, there is a special knife, which is called julienne. Its blade is 25 cm long and 2 cm wide.
Historically, there are a great many juliennes in France. This is a soup, and a casserole with anything, depending on which part of France this dish is prepared - somewhere it is lighter and more like soup, somewhere more satisfying, and these are vegetables with additives, baked in a sauce made of flour and sour cream.
But in Russia, julienne was originally a soup. In the cookbook Molokhovets, a recipe was given:
- Boil beef broth.
- Dry rusks from a loaf of rye bread, top them with broth and hold under the lid for about an hour. Drain and strain the unabsorbed broth (crackers can also be squeezed out, I think)
- Cut one large carrot, turnip, onion, peeled cabbage stalk and six to seven asparagus stalks into very thin strips, add a spoonful of green peas and a few green beans. Cook for an hour.
- When the vegetables are almost ready, put them in the broth infusion on the bread and stir. Serve hot, with crackers (whether I should take fresh or those on which the broth was infused, I did not understand) and chopped herbs.
Impressed? Have you tried it? So I am not.
But I remember the recipe of the Soviet julienne by heart, although now it is not fashionable to cook it:
- We disassemble the boiled chicken into fibers.
- We chop the mushrooms, like the onion.
- Salt all this, put pepper in cocotte makers and fill it with sauce - either bechamel, if we decide to follow the rules, or with a homemade version of sour cream, butter and mayonnaise. The proportions are almost free, taking into account the fact that butter and mayonnaise together should not be more sour cream.
- Sprinkle everything with grated cheese on top and bake at 150 degrees in the oven until crisp, but not less than 15 minutes.
True, I'm more interested in the Molokhovets soup after all... And you?